Gabagool – Italian Street Food

Lizzy Caston

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Location: 836 N Beech Street
Hours: Tues – Sun 11am – 3pm and 6pm – 9pm

The Story: Let’s face it, some food trucks are a bit more elevated, a bit more refined and just have a little more some-some than others. Sure, who doesn’t love a good old down and dirty street meat sandwich from a generic cart at 2am after a night of drinking, or a $4 brick sized burrito from a humble traditional taco truck now and again? Yet, there’s some street food in Portland that is as good, if not better, than the stuff coming out of the city’s finest restaurant kitchens. Gabagool is one such endeavor. Serving Italian dishes, Gabagool hits it with their Piadine flatbread sandwiches, homemade pasta dishes, and other delights. Almost everything from the flatbread, to the pastas, to the sausages, to the cheeses, and even the pickles are made from scratch by Gabagool, using as many locally sourced, naturally raised and farmed ingredients as possible. That’s some serious passion and commitment.

Let’s get the name out of the way though, Gabagool! You may have heard this term on the Sopranos. It’s slang, often heard in the Italian American community on the East Coast of the good old U.S. of A. Officially it refers to the slightly spicy traditional Italian cured sausage known as Capicola as in, “Hey Tony, let’s go grab a Gabagool and pepper sandwich after we send this goombah off to go swimming with the sharks.” Unofficially, there’s another meaning but I’ll let you folks Google that…warning it’s not appropriate to say in polite company and it’s NSFW, but it is kinda spicy! Capiche?

Joking aside, Owner and Chef Ryan Sherman is a total pro.  An East Coast transplant from the Philadelphia area, but a long term Portlander. Ryan has cooked in and been head chef at some of our city’s finer restaurants, and he knows his craft and business well. Gabagool also gets the East Coast Italian food and Italian food culture vibe. You know, the corner stores, little casual Italian delis and trattorias that are part community center –  part take out -part come as you are restaurant with just a table or two. It’s the kind of place that Portland seems to be lacking. He gets it!  You almost expect to see a group of Italian guys sitting around playing Pinochle as they sip on espresso and chow down on antipasti and cannoli. Gabagool has created a nice little welcoming space on their gravel lot, and is a nice addition to the N. Mississippi community, with plenty of picnic table seating and a soon to be covered area (along with other amenities).

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Piadine sandwiches are a specialty here. A traditional flatbread hailing from Northern Italy, Piadine can best be described as a more flaky version of a big flour tortilla. Gabagool makes them fresh from scratch. Traditionally made with lard (to add the flakiness), they can also be ordered made with olive oil for vegetarian and vegan diners.  Stuffed with all manner of incredibly high-quality and fresh ingredients such as capicola, salami, sausage with fennel, cured or fresh peppers, fresh mozzarella or ricotta, caponata – and more. These are light, fresh and highly addictive sandwiches.

Pastas are all made in house along with the sauces that go on top of them. Ricotta stuffed tortellini, traditional papardelle with sausage ragu, and specials such as fettucine bolognese. Really, you just can’t go wrong here.

Other items to round out Gabagool’s offerings include a hearty mixed tritata salad or some crunchy, spicy homemade giardiniera pickles. This ain’t the limp cheap vinegar stuff from the jars and deli cases in the supermarket, people. There’s often specials too – for example a perfect summer honeydew melon wrapped in paper thin Prosciutto di Parma one week, and a hearty potato gnocchi with fresh tomatoes and arugula pesto the next.

Supporting local farms and natural sustainable foods is a big driver at Gabagool, and they source their produce, eggs, and meat from folks such as Latitude 45, Dehart Farms, Sweet Briar Farms, Uncle Paul’s Produce, Wild Side Mushrooms, and Olympic Provisions. Gabagool is food you can feel good about.

There’s an old Italian proverb that states, La cucina piccola fal la casa grande. Translation: A small kitchen makes the house grand. Gabagool’s little blue truck proves that great food can come in small guises. Gabagool, Italian street food made with care.

 

Sample Menu:

Piadine (Flatbread Sandwiches – made with lard or olive oil on request. Vegan and gluten free options are available on request)

  • Gabagool – capicola, salami, romaine lettuce, roasted tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, hot cured peppers – $7
  • Salsicce – pork fennel sausage, sauteed bell peppers, pomodoro, granna padano – $7
  • Caponata – eggplant caponata, seasonal mushrooms, fresh ricotta

Egg Pasta Dishes

  • Pappardelle – pork fennel sausage ragu, grana padano
  • Tagliatelle – pomodoro, basil, grana padano OR extra virgin olive oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, grana padano – $6
  • Tortellini – stuffed with fresh ricotta, seasonal mushrooms and thyme, in pomodoro – $8

Insalata

  • Tritata -romaine lettuce, salami, prosciutto di parma, fresh mozzarella, basil, roasted tomatoes, castelvetrano olives, chick peas, hot peppers, balsamico (can be made vegan) – $6
  • Giardiniera – side of spicy pickled vegetables – $3

Website: Coming Soon

Phone: 503-753-5859

Facebook: GabagoolFood
Twitter: @Gabagoolfood

Comments

  1. North Beech, not Northeast. You got me really excited there for a second… (although the food does still sound good – it’ll just be more effort to get there).

  2. Thanks for catching that Natalie, we made a typo! All fixed now. It’s right on the corner of N Beech and N Mississippi

  3. There are Not gluten free options for the flatbread.

  4. Why is this still listed under GF?

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